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Annapurna Circuit
Page 6. Rundt om Annapurna, Nepal. October 2006

The Kali Gandaki
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click to enlarge
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Page 1 Khudi
- Koto
Page 2 Ghyaru
to Manang
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Page
3 Tilicho
Lake to Jharkot
Page 4 Kagbeni
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Page
5 Dagarjong
Page 6 Kali
Gandaki - Notes/Itinerary
Page
6: Kali Gandaki

The
Kali Gandaki River slices its way through the Himalayas forming a
travel corridor that has been used for thousands of years, connecting
the Tibetan people to the north with the Indian people to the south.
The traders brought salt from Tibet and barley, spices and
clothes from India. This is an incredible journey
through a land of transitions from Tibetan Buddhists to Hindus, from dry
highland regions to subtropical forests. You trek through the world’s
deepest gorge between the Annapurna and the Dhaulagiri ranges.
Marpha to Tukuche
I rode on the backseat of a motorbike from Jomsom to
Tukuche, Rp. 500.
It is now possible to ride a motorbike all the way from Muktinath to
Lete.
Tukuche
Tukuche is one of the most important
trading centers of the Thakali villages.
Wool, salt and semi-precious stones were exchanged here for rice,
cigarettes and cloth. The Trans-Himalayan trade finally died out
with the Chinese takeover of Tibet.
The grand stone houses were used as stores for salt and grain.
The businesslike Thakali have since sought their fortune in tourism.
The 200-year-old house situated at the southern edge
of town served as the customs post from the 19th century.
It now houses the Tukuche Distillery, where you can taste apple,
apricot, peach and carrot brandy and admire the beautiful carvings
of this grand Thakali home.
Kalopani

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Kali
Gandaki and Nilgiri |

Kalopani |

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Dana
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A tea
house |

Merchant's
house in Dana |

Merchant's
house in Dana |
Since last year one wing of Kabin Guest House in
Dana has disappeared, grandfather’s old living quarters. It was
blown up by the Maoists because grandfather had been appointed
chairman of the village by the King when he seized power in 2006.
Grandfather has been forced to relocate to Pokhara.
Tatopani
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Harvest
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Nilgiri seen from Tatopani |

Tatopani means "hot water" and
refers to the hot springs by the river below the village
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In
Tatopani another flock of sheep are herded through the village on
their journey
from Tibet to Pokhara.
Apparently the climate in the Annapurnas doesn’t favour the raising
of sheep.
NB: Klik på billedet for forstørrelse / Click on photo to enlarge

·
Page 1 Khudi
- Koto
Page 2 Ghyaru
to Manang
·
Page
3 Tilicho
Lake to Jharkot
Page 4 Kagbeni
·
Page
5 Dagarjong
Page 6 Kali
Gandaki - Notes/Itinerary
Notes
The Annapurna Circuit: The unusually wide range of climatic
zones in such a small area as the path ascends from 900 metres to 5,300
metres provides a chance to see many different plants and animals and
the different ways of life of the many peoples who live there. Here are
contrasts between the green terraced farmland of the Marshyangdi valley,
the semi-arid environs of Lower Mustang, and the alpine areas of Thorung
La.
Annapurna (8091 m) is an enormous
Himalayan massif, the tenth highest mountain in the world. In 1950, it
became the first 8,000 meter mountain to be successfully climbed. It is
located east of a great gorge cut through the Himalaya by the Kali
Gandaki river.
Internet
There is Internet access in Manang, Kagbeni, Jomsom and Marpha.
Money
There is an ATM in Jomsom.
Transport
It is now possible to ride a motorbike all the
way from Muktinath to Lete.
(But it would spoil the fun of the trip)
Itinerary/Rute

click to enlarge
October 2. Ghalegaun – Khudi –
Bhulbule
October 3. Bhulbule –
Sanjapu (above Ghermu)
October 4. Sanjapu -
Chamje
October 5. Chamje -
Bagarchap
October 6. Bagarchap - Koto
October 7. Koto – Meta. 6 hours’ fast walking
From Koto I made a side trip to Nar Phu Valleys
October 8. Meta – Phu. 7 hours’ fast walking
October 9. Phu
October 10. Phu – Nar. 9 hours’ fast walking
October 11. Nar
October 12. Nar
October 13. Nar – Ngawal. 7 hours.
October 14. Ngawal -
Ghyaru.
(Backtracking on the Annapurna Circuit, but definitely worth
it. A highlight)
October 15. Ghyaru -
Braga
October 16.
Braga.
Day trip to Ice Lake above Braga, and the hilltop above Ice Lake. 3
½ hours (slow), one way.
October 17. Braga
- Tilicho Lake Base Camp, 4,200 m. 6 ½ - 7 hours
October 18. Tilicho Lake Base Camp - Tilicho Lake
- Tilicho Lake Base Camp (5 hours, incl. ½ hour’s rest at the lake)
- Yak Kharka.
A total of 11 hours. A long and hard day.
October 19. Yak Kharka - High Camp. A short hike.
October 20. High Camp – Thorung La (two hours up)
– Jharkot (3 ½ hours down to Muktinath).
The time given is for a well-acclimatized person with a porter).
October 21. Jharkot.
Day trip to Jhong/Dzong, Changur/Chungur and Muktinath.
A relaxing, very beautiful and interesting short day trip across
Jhong Khola.
October 22. Jharkot - Kagbeni
October 23. Kagbeni
October 24. Kagbeni -
Dagarjong
October 25. Dagarjong –
Jomsom - Tukuche.
Jomsom – Tukuche on the backseat of a motorbike, Rp. 500.
It
is now possible to ride a motorbike all the way from Muktinath to
Lete.
October 26. Tukuche –
Tal Bagar
October 27. Tal Bagar -
Tatopani
October 28. Tatopani
(rest day)
October 29. Tatopani -
Pokhara
Last update April 07
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