I spent
the first night in a private house in Saple,
a small Gurung village opposite Thumsikot
NB: Klik på billedet for forstørrelse / Click on photos to enlarge
The trek from Pokhara to Khudi (or
Besisahar) via Bhujung is not yet on the hiking map of the
Annapurnas. But it is a very fascinating trek if you are interested
in catching a glimpse of the traditional way of life of beautiful
Gurung villages as yet unspoilt by tourism. The villages have kept
their traditions and culture alive. Moreover you walk among the rice
and millet terraces of the lusciously green undulating “middle
hills” of Nepal.
The trek has no tea-houses, no signs in English,
so you need at least one porter guide (easily found in Pokhara, but
he may not be fully acquainted with the route), and you must be
prepared to eat and sleep in local houses and live the way the local
people do. But that is part of the fun of this trek.
From Pokhara
you catch a bus to Bijaypur, an army post a few kilometres east
of Pokhara. Here you change buses to Kalikatahn and
Gumle/Thumsikot on Madi Khola.
From Kalikatahn the dirt road is extremely rough and it might be
a better idea to walk to Thumsikot.
Khudi and Besisahar at the end of the hike (on the Annapurna
Circuit) have bus connections to Pokhara (change in
Dumre) and to Kathmandu (direct).
Left: One of
my fellow travellers on the bus from Pokhara was a goat - most
likely sacrificed a few days later during the Dasein festival
The construction of a new road is
always an interesting a spectacle
Above left: A
steel bridge at Thumsikot across Madi Khola
A buffalo is cut up
before Dasein
A Bahun (Brahman) family
Right:
Nepalese children share the daily burdens of the family,
for instance as porters
NB: Klik på billedet for forstørrelse / Click on photos to enlarge
Rice terraces in the lusciously green undulating
“middle hills” of Nepal.
Above and right: A trail through rice paddies
Life may be harsh, but there is always time for a rest
and a cup of tea
NB: Klik på billedet for forstørrelse / Click on photos to enlarge
Pasgoan
A Gurung
woman - and a Buddhist gompa left
Pasgoan
and Bhujung are beautiful traditional Gurung villages perched
on the crest of a hill or high or high on the mountain side. The
two-storey houses are packed closely together around narrow alleys.
Pasgoan
Pasgoan
Above middle:
Smoke from the kitchens seeps through the rooftops in the early
morning
NB: Klik på billedet for forstørrelse / Click on photos to enlarge
Above: Corn stacks in the early
morning sun
Nepalese people radiate dignity and
(self-)respect
NB: Klik på billedet for forstørrelse / Click on photos to enlarge
Ferris wheels
are a very popular pastime for kids during the Dasein festival
Itinerary / Rute
click to enlarge
From Pokhara
you catch a bus to Bijaypur, an army post a few kilometres east
of Pokhara. Here you change buses to Kalikatahn and
Gumle/Thumsikot on Madi Khola.
From Kalikatahn the dirt road is extremely rough and it might be
a better idea to walk to Thumsikot.
Khudi and Besisahar at the end of the hike (on the Annapurna
Circuit) have bus connections to Pokhara (change in
Dumre) and to Kathmandu (direct).
Sept. 28. Thumsikot – Muserei –
Rabaidanda – Bagaicha – Pasgoan.
10 hours walking, incl. rests. Make the day shorter by starting out
earlier the day before.
We bypassed Pakrikot – a detour on this trek – but other groups have
included the village on the trip.
Gurungs are scattered all over Nepal. The
majority of the Gurungs have populated the central and western part
of Nepal, especially the southern region of the Annapurna range.
Gurungs are predominantly Buddhist. The
highlanders are Buddhists and the lowlanders practice Hinduism.
Gurungs make up 2.43% of Nepal's total population, roughly 450,000
people.
Many Gurungs have been recruited for the Gurkha
division of the British Army and thus are well educated and have
access to foreign currency, which has enabled them to buy land and
gain status.
The economy of the Gurungs are mainly based on
agriculture, animal husbandry and services in the army. They grow
rice, wheat, maize, millet and potatoes. Terraced farming is the
norm. They also derive their subsistence from sheep breeding for
meat and wool.