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Gurung Culture Trek


click to enlarge
 

Pokhara to Khudi via Pasgoan, Bhujung and Ghalegaun
Annapurna, Nepal         Sept - Oct 2006   
     Page 1

    ·  Page 1 Pokhara to Pasgoan - Notes/Itinerary                             Page 2 Bhujung
    ·  Page 3 Ghanpokhara & Ghalegaun         4 Dasein in Ghanpokhara & Ghalegaun
                                               ·  See also Sikles Trek 2006
 



Page 1: Pokhara to Pasgoan



I spent the first night in a private house in Saple,
a small Gurung village opposite Thumsikot

                 NB: Klik på billedet for forstørrelse / Click on photos to enlarge

 

The trek from Pokhara to Khudi (or Besisahar) via Bhujung is not yet on the hiking map of the Annapurnas. But it is a very fascinating trek if you are interested in catching a glimpse of the traditional way of life of beautiful Gurung villages as yet unspoilt by tourism. The villages have kept their traditions and culture alive. Moreover you walk among the rice and millet terraces of the lusciously green undulating “middle hills” of Nepal.

The trek has no tea-houses, no signs in English, so you need at least one porter guide (easily found in Pokhara, but he may not be fully acquainted with the route), and you must be prepared to eat and sleep in local houses and live the way the local people do. But that is part of the fun of this trek.
 

From Pokhara you catch a bus to Bijaypur, an army post a few kilometres east of Pokhara. Here you change buses to Kalikatahn and Gumle/Thumsikot on Madi Khola.
From Kalikatahn the dirt road is extremely rough and it might be a better idea to walk to Thumsikot.
Khudi and Besisahar at the end of the hike (on the Annapurna Circuit) have bus connections to Pokhara (change in Dumre) and to Kathmandu (direct).

Left: One of my fellow travellers on the bus from Pokhara was a goat - most likely sacrificed a few days later during the Dasein festival



The construction of a new road is always an interesting a spectacle
 

Above left: A steel bridge at Thumsikot across Madi Khola
 


A buffalo is cut up
before Dasein
 


A Bahun (Brahman) family


 

 

Right: Nepalese children share the daily burdens of the family, for instance as porters

                 NB: Klik på billedet for forstørrelse / Click on photos to enlarge
 


Rice terraces in the lusciously green undulating “middle hills” of Nepal.
 


Above and right: A trail through rice paddies
 

 



 


Life may be harsh, but there is always time for a rest
and a cup of tea

                 NB: Klik på billedet for forstørrelse / Click on photos to enlarge
 



Pasgoan


A Gurung woman - and a Buddhist gompa left
 

Pasgoan and Bhujung are beautiful traditional Gurung villages perched on the crest of a hill or high or high on the mountain side. The two-storey houses are packed closely together around narrow alleys.
 


Pasgoan

 


Pasgoan

 

Above middle:
Smoke from the kitchens seeps through the rooftops in the early morning
 

                 NB: Klik på billedet for forstørrelse / Click on photos to enlarge
 

 

 

Above: Corn stacks in the early morning sun
 

 

Nepalese people radiate dignity and (self-)respect
 


 

                 NB: Klik på billedet for forstørrelse / Click on photos to enlarge
 

 

 



Ferris wheels are a very popular pastime for kids during the Dasein festival
 



Itinerary / Rute



click to enlarge
 

From Pokhara you catch a bus to Bijaypur, an army post a few kilometres east of Pokhara. Here you change buses to Kalikatahn and Gumle/Thumsikot on Madi Khola.
From Kalikatahn the dirt road is extremely rough and it might be a better idea to walk to Thumsikot.
Khudi and Besisahar at the end of the hike (on the Annapurna Circuit) have bus connections to Pokhara (change in Dumre) and to Kathmandu (direct).

 

Sept. 27, 2006. Departure Pokhara 12.30.
Bus: Bijaypur – Kalikatahn – Saude – Madi Khola – Gumle/Thumsikot (bus terminus).
Saple (Gurung village, overnight).

Sept. 28. Thumsikot – Muserei – Rabaidanda – Bagaicha – Pasgoan.
10 hours walking, incl. rests. Make the day shorter by starting out earlier the day before.
We bypassed Pakrikot – a detour on this trek – but other groups have included the village on the trip.

Sept. 29. Pasgoan – Kamagoan – Bhujung. 4 ½ - 5 hours.

Sept. 30. Bhujung - Ghanpokhara (2 ½ hours) – Ghalegaun (½ hour)

October 1. Ghalegaun, rest day.

October 2. Ghalegaun – Khudi. 3 hours. Long and steep descent.
 


 

    ·  Page 1 Pokhara to Pasgoan - Notes/Itinerary                             Page 2 Bhujung
    ·  Page 3 Ghanpokhara & Ghalegaun         4 Dasein in Ghanpokhara & Ghalegaun
                                               ·  See also Sikles Trek 2006
 



Gurungs

Gurungs are scattered all over Nepal. The majority of the Gurungs have populated the central and western part of Nepal, especially the southern region of the Annapurna range.

Gurungs are predominantly Buddhist. The highlanders are Buddhists and the lowlanders practice Hinduism. Gurungs make up 2.43% of Nepal's total population, roughly 450,000 people.

Many Gurungs have been recruited for the Gurkha division of the British Army and thus are well educated and have access to foreign currency, which has enabled them to buy land and gain status.

The economy of the Gurungs are mainly based on agriculture, animal husbandry and services in the army. They grow rice, wheat, maize, millet and potatoes. Terraced farming is the norm. They also derive their subsistence from sheep breeding for meat and wool.
 

Last update October 07

                                                                                                                     


 

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